Barrier Coat bottom paint and all new through hulls

It's been a while since my last post.  Mainly because of the long hours prior to launch, and since launch we have been sailing..

The Barrier Coat we chose was Interlux 2000E.  We chose this in part due to the recommendations of our boatyard, and in part due to the temperatures at which we were going to be applying it.  Hull temperatures during the drying out period were in the 50s farenheit in the tent, even with a heater going full time.  We planned to apply four coats of barrier coat over the two coats of epoxy already on the hull, then two coats of bottom paint.

We purchased 2 gallons of grey Interlux 2000E, and two 2 gallons of white. This way, we could alternate between grey and white to better determine coverage. I strongly recommend alternating colors. It made the coverage so much more uniform.

The barrier coat was mixed with a drill and paint mixing handle and the coating was left to stand about half an hour prior to application. Just enough time to go for a stroll in the marina and come back.  At first we mixed only a partial gallon, not knowing how long the working time would be before it kicked. After the first gallon, we only mixed gallons up. There was no problem using them up!  The boatyard routinely puts unused but mixed barrier coating in a freezer overnight to keep it from kicking when they have extra.  We did not try this.

Another requirement is adequate ventilation, and a high quality organic vapor cartridge mask.  We had the whole thing in a plastic tent,  with gallons of solvents. In order not to die, we set up giant fans blowing air into the tent at one end, and out of the tent at the other while coating and allowing the coat to dry. We also used a 3M 6000 full face respirator, the same one we used to sand the hull, but now with an appropriate organic vapor cartridge.
We rolled on the Interlux 2000E with a 1/4 inch nap roller that was of good quality.  We have found that the cheap rollers disintegrate from the solvents, and recommend a better quality roller.

The first grey coat when on quickly over the sanded, washed and dried epoxy already on the hull. A tooth of about 60 grit seems appropriate for covering and bonding without getting excessive scars coming through.

I started under the keel, and worked my way up one side, then the other. 

 

The stands were straightforward. I simply coated around them, then moved them one at a time and coated underneath.After a few days drying time, I repeated this procedure again and again.

After 3 coats (grey/white/grey) I didn't want to move the jackstands any more. So I painted the fourth coat (white), allowed it to dry, and put on two coats of my bottom coat of choice prior to moving the jackstands one final time.

Once the final barrier coat was on, I mixed up some of my bottom paint  (Pettit Unepoxy) and rolled it on.

2 Coats and tear out of the tent-done!(sort-of)

At this point you can still see the tape line on the hull and the residue of the duct tape- A healthy dose of WD-40 and some elbow grease and they come right off from the hull. The tubes hanging from the two aft through hulls were to drain the cockpit outside of the tent.  

The next step was to attach the throughhulls and prop. The waterline on our boat was about an inch above several of the existing connections.  Thus, if any of the connections gave out, the ocean would be coming in.  Not my plan.  The through hull on the left was existing. The through hull on the right is it's replacement.  I went with Groco IBFV adapter plates, and full witdth 316 stainless and bronze ball valves. Pretty ambitious and beefy change.  Certainly overkill, but what is the alternative? Sinking? 

In this case, one of two cockpit drain throughhulls is shown in the middle, and the replacements for it on either side.

Here is my assortment of through hulls and ball valves.  I used some Marelon one piece fittings due to space and use concerns.  I love these things and would replace everything on the boat with them if I could.

  

Finally I fitted a new prop. 

We went with a smaller 12x10 3 blade prop to replace the old 15x12 2 blade prop.  The blade areas are about the same, but it turns out this prop is just a tad too small. I am now going to replace it with a 14x10 3 blade that I have.

Thats enough for now.  Here is the hull, finished, with through hulls installed and prop on. Everything that touches the water is new except the cutlass bearing and the shaft. Those were fine.

Next, I will describe the new engine intake system, and new alternator.